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Couture Week 2025: Did Designers Ditch the Fantasy for Function?

When you hear “couture,” you probably dust off images of swooping trains, feather-licked capes, crystal-encrusted bodices and gowns that seem designed for the Met Gala rather than the curb-side coffee run. But at the various haute-couture showcases in 2025-especially the big one in Paris-there’s a curious question in the air: has haute couture pulled back the veil of fantasy and started to lean into something a little more functional, or at least grounded? The short answer: yes and no. The long answer: it’s a glorious hybrid. 

The case for fantasy 

Let’s not kid ourselves-many designers still went full dreamscape. An example of these was the duo Viktor and Rolf who introduced a collection that was full of surrealism: oversized bows, sculptural ruffles, playful volumes, colors and silhouettes that screamed; this is couture theatre. On their part, the fashion writers also pointed out that many of them were still strongly linked to luxury, escapism and workmanship on the uppermost level.    

Take the case of the Spring/Summer 2025 line of Schiaparelli: the collection was inspired by the myth of Icarus, and its winged figures, metal surfaces, and spectacle.  Or the Southwest-of-France palette and spent jewelry ball-goodness of Zuhair Murad, which bordered the traditional couture fantasy territory. In other words: yes, plenty of fantasy. The kind that makes you gasp. The kind you want to photograph. The kind that says, “I am not for Tuesday errands.” 

The movement toward function (or at least grounded fantasy) 

Now, the interesting part. Even among these dreamscapes, there was a shift-rather than full-on fantasy; we saw fantasy with anchors. Looks like that, while still striking, seemed to ask less of the wearer and more of the story. 

Muted palettes, textures, boots instead of stilettos

One write-up pointed out that color choices in many collections became more restrained-whites, ivories, beiges-and that models were sometimes styled with chunky boots. The message: “beauty can live in both fantasy and function.” 

Architectural tailoring & strong silhouette

For example, Stéphane Rolland’s collection was described as “architectural tailoring with fluid elegance … long mermaid dresses swept the runway with dramatic volume … metallic headpieces and sharp corsetry nodded to celestial armor.” Structures that suggest strength, precision, and even wearability (relatively speaking). 

Symbolism + modern relevance

The Victorian-ballgown fantasies still exist, but many designers layered in reference to time, biology, technology and the world. For instance, designer Amit Aggarwal (presenting at the Indian Couture Week) folded in ideas of DNA, transformation and human code in his collection.  

In short: fantasy did not vanish-it evolved. More architecture. More layering. More implicit movement toward something the wearer might feel comfortable in-not just be photographed in. 

So—did designers ditch fantasy for function? 

Not quite. If you were hoping for crisp minimal suits and purely “real-life” practicality? That didn’t happen (and frankly, why would it?). Couture is, and will remain, an art form as much as apparel. But yes: you could argue there was a shift toward more grounded expressions of that fantasy. A move from spectacle-for-spectacle’s sake to spectacle that means something and maybe works a bit more. 

Consider this comparison: 

  • Pure fantasy showstopper: Oversized wings, floating trains, glittering crystals, models in impossible poses. 
  • Grounded couture piece: Strong tailoring beneath fantastic elements; boots or flat shoes replacing sky-high heels; colors that whisper rather than scream; materials and silhouette that could just be a stretch-imagine movement in real life. 

The latter felt more evident in 2025 than perhaps in past seasons where every look was drilled for one wow-photo moment. 

Why the shift? A few possible reasons 

  • Post-pandemic mindset & wearability: The world might still embrace luxury, but there’s greater focus on utility-even in couture. If luxury doesn’t touch human experience, it loses some resonance. 
  • Material & craft emphasis: With textiles, surfaces, and tailoring getting more attention, the “how” has become just as important as the “wow”. When the craft is visible, you don’t always need over-the-top bells and whistles. 
  • Narrative over ornaments: Designers talk about nature, biology, technology, and identity. And so, fantasy elements become metaphorical more than literal. 
  • Sustainability & context: While still luxurious, there’s pressure (internal & external) for couture houses to think about materials, relevance and longevity. A gown that you can only wear once, and photograph doesn’t feel quite responsible as one that might live beyond the runway (or at least reference something beyond the moment). 

What it means for you (or the fashion-obsessed) 

  • If you’re tracking the trend-cycle: expect future couture (and eventual diffusion to ready-to-wear) to play more with structure + story rather than pure fluff. 
  • If you follow designers: keep an eye on how they balance showpiece craft with wearable nuance. The sweet spot seems to be in that tension. 
  • If you’re a consumer: note that even high-luxury is inching toward pieces that feel a little less like museum artifacts and a little more like personal statements-though yes, you’ll still likely never wear that train on a bus. 
  • If you’re a designer (or aspire to be) the message is clear: fantasy isn’t dead. But fantasy plus function (or fantasy grounded in meaning) is compelling. 

Final thoughts 

Therefore, did couture week 2025 abandon the fantasy role? No, it only refined fantasy. It said: we do believe in magic, spectacles and crafts. But we shall also believe in power, customization, in story, and in sense. The haute couture of 2025 was less like the gown that is impossible to get (even in a fairy-tale) and more like the fairy-tale that is wearable (in some other universe where you can go out wearing it).  

And honestly? I’m here for that. Since it is not going to be replaced by anything as a dream, couture as art and influence must change-not by abandoning the dream, but by perfecting it. 

Couture Week 2025: Did Designers Ditch the Fantasy for Function?

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